Cupid's little helper: The Alchemist on Valentine's

Even the most unromantic occasionally crave the perfect aphrodisiac come Valentine's Day. With most holidays, the dictates of tradition and the calendar's date supply bartenders with their Hallmark-card drink specials. That's how Egg Nog and green beer have survived so long. But imbibers out to impress on Valentine's lack such quirky classics that are sipped for a day and forgotten for the year. Instead, they're left with the tough task of finding a quality cocktail that actually suits their sweethearts' tastes as well as the occasion.

But first, a few words of warning: The elusive love potion for Valentine's frolicking shouldn't be confused with alcohol's stimulating ability to numb the portion of the brain that screens for lapses in common sense. That aside, there is at least one aphrodisiac with a history of sworn affidavits and police records supporting its potency. Now outlawed in many countries, absinthe - the green goddess blamed for fits of passion and the deflowering of many young virgins - can still be bought in parts of Eastern Europe, or made wherever wormwood can be found. Although I certainly wouldn't recommend anything illegal, this herbal liqueur does have a reputation that's inspiring even when recited over a frappé of its legal substitute, Pernod.

After the exotic comes the expected: pink drinks - as reliable as a dozen red roses or a package of overpriced chocolates. If you're unsure of a potential sweetheart's likes, start with these. Pink drinks, after all, have a solid track record at the bar on any night. Put one on the mahogany, and soon everyone's ordering them. Sweet tooths should try the Clover Club, while those after drier drinks will appreciate the Evan and the Cosmopolitan. These latter drinks rely on cranberry juice for their rosy glow and slight bite. If you're fortunate enough to have a significant other who enjoys the juniper burn of gin, start your evening early with an inspiring aperitif known as the Negroni.

Those who can't be lured into trying a new cocktail might be receptive to a slight twist on their old standby. If a cocktail calls for Cointreau, substitute red curaçao, which is merely another brand of orange liqueur. With curaçao, the cocktail will gain a pink hue without disturbing the drink's flavor. Another option is to substitute a splash of raspberry syrup or grenadine for simple syrup. Just remember that these syrups can make a drink too sweet.

If you feel that your evening requires more sophistication than pink drinks, serve champagne straight or in cocktails - either way it's one of the more appropriate wines for anyone in love. Although champagne manages to charm most, some inevitably follow the leanings of Francis Bacon, who ordered "champagne for ... sham friends; real pain for ... real friends." Since most take his words as referring to a hangover, it's worth noting that such an inconvenience can be easily avoided through the moderation of quality liquors. In other words, skip the box of chocolates and spend your money on the best bubbly you can afford.

You may also want to consider making a dinner to accompany the evening's libations. Tailor the drinks to each course and to each imbiber's stamina. Whether at home or at a restaurant, this approach shows that you've put thought into the evening, and if carried out well, won't make for any regrets the morning after. Consider starting the evening with aperitifs like the Champagne Cocktail and the French 75. The citrus of the latter cocktail works nicely with appetizers and a salad to prepare the palate for the main course. Dinner may dictate a switch to a glass of red or still white wine. Don't select something so heavy and complex that it overpowers the meal and makes everyone ready for a nap soon after dinner. Sipping a glass of water between spirituous beverages can also help pace any young lover's intake for an evening.

Drink choices to accompany desserts are limitless. Kir Royale is a nice fruity cocktail that any bar can make, while the Bellini, a soothing cocktail made with the nectar of white peaches, is tasty but best tackled at home. Adamant beer drinkers should be encouraged to at least try a Black Velvet - only a slight compromise on a romantic night. Cognac, poire Williams, and port can comfortably follow champagne for those wanting to try something different before the taxi ride home.

By the evening's last hand-tailored cocktail, your sweetheart will know that you didn't rush out at the last minute to buy Valentine's trinkets and cards - nor did you leave anything to chance. Instead, you managed to find the perfect aphrodisiac, but only for the person you really want to impress.