Something to appreciate and hardly to expect: Good service

Good service has become something to appreciate, and hardly to expect, especially when traveling. Long gone are the era and regime of Patrick Gavin Duffy, who back in the late '20s and early '30s had charge of barmen - in "spotless white, wearing carnations in their lapels and ranged in their appointed stations behind the long, highly polished bar" at the Ashland House. "When a customer approached, a little napkin of Irish linen was placed on the counter in front of him," wrote Mr. Duffy in his 1934 Official Mixer's Manual. "A gleaming glass, suitable for the drink he ordered, was set before him, and the bartender then rapidly mixed his drink."

You'll rarely come across that type of service at even the most touted bars. In fact, a while ago I wandered into the Ritz-Carlton of Laguna Niguel, California, reportedly one of the chain's best. The airs certainly were on, but I couldn't find anyone on staff who knew how to make a Rob Roy - and at nearly eight bucks per 4-ounce drink, I was a bit put off by being asked twice for its ingredients. With patrons paying those prices, you'd think that such reputable hotels might spring for proper staff training. Martini sage Lowell Edmunds has a similar tale of efforts to get a well-made drink while traveling.

Of course, even the masters behind the bar aren't typically the most attentive the first few times they serve you. It's not that you've made a poor first impression. Rather, their attention is typically taken by a bar full of friends and regulars. Weary travelers and their cocktail orders are easily slighted. Airport and many hotel bars aren't exceptions, even though nearly everyone is just passing through. Orders are often neglected, thanks to an impatient crowd or the slipshod view that there's no need to impress someone you may never see again. But fortunately, there are ways to hedge a bad drink by how you order the first.

First off, consider the atmosphere of the bar. A lot of elbows on the mahogany dictate that the order should be businesslike: to the point and convincing. Bartenders will appreciate that you've not upset the delicate flow of their work with indecision or high-maintenance requests. But if you've meandered into the bar at a particularly slow time for the mixers, let them be their charming selves, and order however you like. Many bartenders - even those who struggle to mix the most basic of drinks - believe they're the great, though often undiscovered, entertainer in the town, or at least the bar. It may take them a round or two, but these bartenders - when indulged - are usually quite willing to work at serving a quality drink. Granted, you may have to laugh at their jokes.

The drink you order is also important when it comes to making an impression at the bar. If you choose a cocktail that's too difficult to prepare, bartenders will remember you for being a pain in the ass, regardless of your demeanor. But if your drink's too simple, you'll blend right in with the paneling. A Gin and Tonic is a bad choice, even if you ask for extra lime juice in this refreshing highball. But if you modify this standard by requesting a couple dashes of bitters, you'll be remembered as a cut above the crowd. Some bartenders may have to search for the bitters, but even the diviest of bars will have a bottle. Why does this work? First off, you've ordered a drink that's within the host's knowledge and abilities, so there's no rash animosity likely to erupt. You've also made an educated and tasty variation on a classic that's memorable and so easy to make that bartenders won't shy from your end of the bar as you finish your final sips of the drink.

Few imbibers - and usually only those who've proved themselves as regulars - can teach a bartender to make a difficult drink. Interestingly, the definition of "difficult" is quite relative. Frozen beverages, with their sweet syrups and confections, aren't technically tough to make. But few bartenders will welcome the mess and the means associated with making them. Cocktails like the Mojito and the Mint Julep will try their patience and their skill. Only subtle patrons of good taste will actually succeed in reminding bartenders that they don't know everything about their vocation.

Another good way to win respect in an unfamiliar locale is to play to the bartenders' strengths. Ask them to make you whatever they most enjoy mixing. If you're weak of palate, ask for the drink's ingredients before following through with the order. You can always ask for, but not specify, the recipe of something lighter, confident that most bartenders love the guest who's willing to try nearly anything. Drinking the mixer's choice also ensures they'll check back with you promptly: If they've suggested it, they'll certainly want you to like it.

If all this sounds too complicated, just ask for a different garnish in an otherwise standard cocktail. A twist of orange in your Martini, or a lemon zest in a Manhattan, sometimes does the trick. If all else fails, just remember that bartenders are trying to make a living while attempting to keep you and several others happy. Often adding an extra dollar to the tip for your first drink - regardless of its quality - will ensure better cocktails to follow, and a contented coexistence with any bartender, in any town.