[The Alchemist]

The manners of the bar: How to bring them back

For the novice mixer, the huge number of available drink recipes can be daunting. Usually a rookie will go with the familiar, mixing the same cocktail for every situation. Of course, we all have our favorites, but not every cocktail suits every occasion. Besides, your guests will appreciate a little variety.

Paul Harrington, alchemist Fear of the unknown can be easily overcome, if you remember that there are four main drink families. These timeless classics - Sidecars, Manhattans, Old Fashioneds, and Mojitos - are the cornerstones on which to build your repertoire. All other drinks are merely variations on one of these four fundamental themes. If you can master these simple drinks, you can mix anything.

 
The witty

When making Sidecar-type cocktails, stick to the proper proportions. You'll recognize drinks in this family by their mathematical formula: sweet + sour = strong.

These drinks are crisp in flavor and brisk in temperature. The base alcohol should be present in the flavor, while the sweetness slightly eases the sour tang of these drinks. Add too much citrus, and the drinker's digestive tract will feel the acid. If the drink's overly sweet, it'll coat the inside of your mouth like a lollipop.

This drink family, which includes the Daiquiri, the Cosmopolitan, and the Aviation, quenches thirst while sparking both mind and mouth. Almost anybody can relate to the pleasure of a Margarita in the late afternoon after a long day at the beach.

 
The sublime

Manhattans and Martinis have relied on image to survive. They are the sleekest of all cocktails, which makes them stand out in the crowd. But, remember, looks aren't everything.

Sublime in nature, cocktails of this class rely heavily on the sensitivity and imagination of their creator, and the base ingredient is key (in fact, it's this family's telltale trait). Don't request one at a bar unless your host's credentials have been tested first.

Over Thanksgiving, my nephew commented that a Manhattan is not really a mixed drink, but a double shot of rye. Even after carefully crafting my response to his youthful quip, I found it difficult to convey to him the magical transformation alcohol makes when poured over arctic ice and treated with proper care.

Each liquor obviously has its own alcoholic content, but beyond that, each subtle mix creates a flavor altogether unique. I'm often stumped as to why good mixologists can create fanciful martinis with well gin, whereas amateurs can't mix their way out of a bathtub with Sapphire. (Insecure bartenders, in fact, attempt to set their Martinis apart from the mundane gin straight-up by adding only the slightest amount of vermouth.)

 

The nearly forgotten

Old Fashioneds, for you sticklers for detail, are not cocktails at all. Many people think of the rye variation of this sweet Manhattan on the rocks, a drink it closely resembles. The novice bartender always gets this family confused with the Manhattans and Martinis. Remember, this family is short and squat, with lots of ice, and usually with some fruit.

Sadly, few drinks from this category have survived. Nowadays, the Rusty Nail, a scotch-based cousin to the once-popular Old Fashioned, is the most often ordered.

If you enjoy fruit and infused vodka to create an original. Just remember to macerate gently, and never skimp on ice.

 

The sensual

I expect the Mojito surprised you with its light taste and look. I've always found it to be the most refreshing potion. A marriage between the julep and the Rickey, this drink excels in presentation and sensation.

The Mojito falls under the general classification of a tall drink. The best tall drinks are merely adequately prepared cocktails, poured over ice, and topped with the freshest soda you can find. As the tiny carbon bubbles are released, they aid the citrus in dusting a dry mouth. If added sweetness or a bit of spice is desired, Seven-Up or a good ginger ale may be added to these tall ones, as in the case of a Collins.

When it comes to glasses, the taller and thinner, the better. The smaller opening keeps the CO2 from dissipating too quickly. If you are entertaining a school of fish that's keeping you behind the bar all night, turn their cocktails into the tall version; the added liquid will slow them down.

 

Copyright © 1994-99 Wired Digital Inc. All rights reserved.