Drinks with history: Wine cocktails

"Owing to the protracted illness of this country, due to a law known as the 18th Amendment, America is not one of the leading wine-drinking countries," wrote Murdock Pemberton in the Official Mixer's Manual of 1934. "The period of Prohibition provided mainly distilled spirits, any wine obtained usually being of a bad, if not outright harmful, quality. An entire generation was born and proceeded through a period of life when tastes are usually formed without much knowledge of honest, sound wine." Of course, the French insist that's still the case, and admittedly, I can't defend the '80s trend of wine coolers in this country. But I stand behind cocktails made with wine for occasions that dictate a cut in one's alcohol intake or a change in one's habit.

But wine cocktails have a history that began long before the teetotalers' reign. In fact, the French are often credited with making the first of such drinks, known as Kir ("keer"). A blend of white wine and cassis, this cocktail was invented about 100 years ago to save the economy of a certain French appellation that had the misfortune of a miserable vintage. As the wine aged, it developed into an unpalatable brew. To save the region's vintners and their families from near starvation during the winter ahead, the local magistrate - led by the mayor of Dijon, Felix Kir - decreed that the wine could be mixed with the sweet liqueur cassis to make it sellable, and to most everyone's surprise, a fantastic beverage was born that's still enjoyed today as an aperitif.

Kir, with its continued popularity, has transcended the realm of cocktails. Those who insist they never drink cocktails will often sip Kir. Sympathetic bartenders add a dash of cassis to a glass of house wine that a thrifty patron dislikes but nonetheless orders. Take that as a clue: Quality wines should be enjoyed straight, unadulterated and at the appropriate temperature for the varietal. Dumping syrups and fruit juices into a glass of fine champagne or a US$6 glass of chardonnay is a waste of the grape.

Fortunately, that leaves plenty of affordable wines for mixing cocktails. Look for red or white wines with good body and acidity that retail from $5 to $8. Light red wines like pinot noirs, however, do not mix well. When it comes to white wines, sauvignon blancs and dry Rieslings are especially nice in cocktails.

When serving wine neat, hosts must carefully consider accompanying food to be served. But cocktails made with wine needn't be tied so closely to such dishes. It's still worth noting, though, that white wines most complement fowl, seafood, poultry, and the other white meat. Red wines suit rich, red meat, and port suits cheese. Champagne, though technically a white wine, goes with everything.

During the Old School of American Bartending, whose heyday lasted from 1897 until 1919, claret was a common red wine for mixing cocktails. Charles H. Baker, in his Gentleman's Companion of 1939, goes into great detail about this tradition and its etiquette, which includes handling claret "like a newborn baby" and carefully decanting it. You really don't need to fret about this wine, which comes only from the French region Bordeaux. It is worth noting, though, that all Bordeaux are clarets and that the main grape varietal used in the making of claret is cabernet sauvignon. Today, there are many affordable cabernets and other red wines.

The difficulty of making wine cocktails, particularly with red wine, is achieving the proper drink temperature. Red wine loses much of its character when chilled too long. So when preparing to mix a drink with this wine, refrigerate the bottle for only 10 to 15 minutes, and use very little ice in the cocktail. One or two cubes should do the trick, since wine is already more diluted than spirits like gin or whiskey. The same holds true for adding any ingredient to a wine cocktail. It takes much less juice, liqueur, or fruit wines to modify the flavor of a base wine. Just a squeeze of lemon or lime will work, instead of the typical cocktail measurement of half an ounce. Too much juice in a wine cocktail makes the drink taste as if it's about to ferment.

The most popular wine cocktail is Sangria, from the Spanish word for "bleeding." Early on, this drink was composed of any liquor, a slice of lemon and other fruits, sugar, and nutmeg, and was served in a Collins glass. Nowadays, it's often served as a punch. Popular in Spain and tapas bars around the world, Sangria capitalizes on the rough nature of Spanish wine and an abundance of fruit. Most citrus juices are suitable for this drink, though only a few should be added. Lemon, lime, and orange go well with a dash of pineapple or other sweet juice in this drink. Leave large chunks of fruit in the drink for a visual effect and a tangy zest from the fruit rinds' oils. If red isn't to your liking, try the same formula with a white wine base, which - it so happens - won't stain your carpet. For a little effervescence, splash champagne on top of the drink. A common mistake when making Sangria is to use cheap red wine. You may save money, but you'll lose friends after they're hit hard with unnecessary hangovers.

My favorite wine cocktail is the Prince of Wales. Although typically made with champagne, this drink is quite good with a white wine base. Made with 4 ounces wine, 1/2 ounce brandy, 1/2 ounce Madeira, 1/4 ounce Cointreau, and a dash of Angostura bitters stirred and served over ice, the Prince of Wales has a memorable taste from the Madeira wine, which gives the drink a robust sweetness perfect for autumn evenings. Substituting a ruby port for it is a lovely variation.

There's no need to mix a cocktail with champagne - a good bottle of domestic bubbly will work nicely. Make certain that your wine and accents are well chilled before mixing. Adding ice to sparkling wine will only make the cocktail less effervescent. Always chill other white wines before mixing, though some ice may be added.

When mixing with fortified wines and vermouth derivatives, the rules change somewhat. The wines have stronger qualities and a higher amount of alcohol, so use plenty of ice for chilling. Alfonso is a name claimed by numerous drinks. The Diner's Club Drink Book, of 1961, offers the Alfonso XIII, an elegant wine cocktail that blends Dubonnet and sherry. Because its two ingredients are both wines, chill the mix over ice and then strain it into a true cocktail glass. Your guests will be delighted with this aperitif that's low in alcohol. You may also want to try the Americano served in this fashion, without all the ice and soda water. Who knows, after a few such tasty cocktails, you may find James Thurber quite right when it comes to judging a wine's true caliber: "It's a naive domestic burgundy without any breeding, but I think you'll be amused by its presumption."

Wine cocktails to try