The classics: The best bar books to buy

The noble experiment, with its thousands of speakeasies, did little to keep anyone from enjoying spirituous libations. But it did manage to destroy the bartending profession's reputation and rigor, as previously achieved at such fine establishments as the Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar in New York. Even this hallmark of fine mixing failed to make it through the drought unscathed. In 1929, without the vitality of its famous bar, the Waldorf-Astoria closed quietly, claiming that the construction of the Empire State Building was taking up too much space. Although the establishment reopened on Park Avenue in 1931, the bar was gone, though there were plenty of stations at which soda and water were served.

Whenever buying a cocktail recipe book, I keep the Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar in mind. Its closing symbolized the end of what's now called the Old School of American Bartending, whose heyday lasted from 1897 until 1919. Any bartender's guide from that time is worth buying. Of course, finding such an old book never happens on demand, which is why I consider buying any drink book published before 1960.

My favorite and most trusted bar book is, in fact, The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book, written by historian Albert Stevens Crockett, with drink recipes by mixing maestro Joseph Taylor. This classic, with recipes well-established before 1919, meets my other requirements of a good bar book. After checking the publication date, I typically look at the recipes, always searching first for the Mojito. But even if a book fails to include this Cuban classic, I don't necessarily put it down. I look for my other favorites, and if it has the correct classic recipes or interesting variations, I will oftentimes buy it.

Another quality shared by the best bar books is an extensive glossary of spirits and cordials. Names for many of these have often changed over time, so having several books with glossaries or dictionaries is key.

The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book also covers history and events from the brass rail of the bar. Although such background isn't necessary, it's certainly a bonus. Recipes are only half of making a good drink - service, style, and form are important, as well. If you haven't an inkling about how to bartend, however, you'll need more than Crockett's tome, published in 1934. Remember, books of this time were published for professional bartenders; they make assumptions and contain certain elements that may confuse novice mixers. Serving sizes, for instance, were much smaller in those days, and the availability and names of some ingredients, including primary liquors, have changed. If you're just beginning to mix cocktails, find a copy of Grossman's Guide to Wines, Spirits, and Beer, from 1940. Although some of the wine and beer information could certainly be updated, Harold J. Grossman's writing about spirits is timeless.

Two of my other favorite bar books, The Gentleman's Companion and The South American Gentleman's Companion, were written by Charles H. Baker during the '30s. The recipe format of these books isn't particularly easy to follow, but each recipe has an amazing tale. I rarely grab for one of these books while mixing drinks; rather, I open it while resting in my armchair, nursing a cigar, and entertaining the desire to be taken to far-off lands. One of my most cherished possessions is a leather-bound set of The Gentleman's Companion, with one book about exotic food and the other about their suitable beverage accompaniments. You'll probably pay a high price for Baker's books, though. Well-kept leather-bound sets go from US$50 to $150 at used-book stores and estate sales.

Patrick Gavin Duffy, best known for his plea, "Bartending is an old and honorable trade," produced a fine, no-frills guide for mixing in 1934, called The Official Mixer's Manual. With an inspiring introduction and useful information throughout, Duffy's book is one that I commonly reach for and come across often in used-book stores and at garage sales. (In fact, a friend of mine recently bought a copy for $2 from a thrift store.) Duffy has taken care to organize all his drink recipes by their base ingredient, which is useful for someone concerned with trying different spirits. His book is more helpful to the home mixer than the professional. But if you want several good canapé ideas, search the back of this book.

If you're after tips for hosting a party, the easiest books to find and follow are those by Trader Vic. Out of the many books written by Victor Bergeron, creator of the Mai Tai, I most recommend the Trader Vic's Bartender's Guide, published in 1946. Originally a promotional item to broaden the average Joe's tastes for drinks with Polynesian flavors, this book also managed to demystify, if not oversimplify, the job of a bartender. Chances are you'll be able to find one of Trader Vic's books at a used-book store for less than $10. But you'll have to come across it before I do, because I buy every copy I find, keeping the good ones and using the others as gifts. The recipes in these books aren't always reliable, and their tone is far from classic, but there's plenty of instructional text that will lead you through an evening of merriment.

Somewhat like Trader Vic's books are the Esquire drink books from the '40s and '60s, all of which are practical for the home bartender. In 1957, Bantam books published The Art of Mixing Drinks, based on the Esquire drink books of previous decades. A great pocket resource, The Art of Mixing Drinks qualifies as a classic guide, with all its measurement tables, equipment and spirit descriptions, and bits of history and tradition. The book doesn't include the Mojito, but it covers plenty of other classic Cuban drinks, along with the magazine's favorite, though silly, 365 reasons for having a party.

One book that stands as a proud icon of a generation gone astray, at least in the realm of cocktails, is Playboy's New Host & Bar Book. Wearing polyester may be fun again and bell-bottoms are still great for hiding unpolished shoes, but under no circumstance should this book be considered a cocktail treatise. However, it is useful for putting the '70s into perspective. Compared to the garnishes of that time, the clothes were subdued.

There are a few modern-day books - all published by Charles Schumann, proprietor of Schumann's in Munich, Germany - that rival those of the '20s and '30s. Schumann trained in the New York fashion of bartending. His rigor and discipline behind the bar are legendary, and the recipes in his books follow the principles set by the Old School. Although most of his books are in German, his 390-page American Bar, published by Abbeville Press in 1995, costs about $25 in the United States and it's in English. I once bought a Schumann book solely because it was such a remarkable piece of art. I can't even read German, but it was one of the few times that I judged a book by its cover.