Winter holiday digestifs: The charm of Kahlua

For more than a year, the Virtual Blender had been without Kahlua, and no one seemed to notice. But ever since the holiday ads hit - just a few days after Halloween - I've been bombarded with email asking for drink recipes containing this Mexican coffee-flavored cordial. So now I'm convinced: Those damn billboards cluttering the roadways work.

I'll remit those recipes, but not without my two cents. First off, the omission of Kahlua from the drink database was no oversight - rather a decision based on the definition of an aperitif cocktail, and the fear that imbibers who start with overly sweet drinks never learn to appreciate the classics. But now I'm ready to consider another ruse, one inspired by the flacks promoting Kahlua: Save this cordial for your winter holiday digestifs - a fair compromise I think we can agree on.

To sweeten the deal, I'll even toss in the family's recipe for homemade Kahlua. After all, whenever making drinks, there should be some sort of skill and sophistication involved. Mixing with Kahlua requires none, but actually making the cordial does require some. (Interestingly enough, the only spirit that Kahlua's rich flavor can't squelch is gin. Vodka, brandy, rum, milk, and orange juice are the most popular mixers to follow Kahlua into a tumbler, though just about anything from behind the bar will do.) So with only a passing warning about the hangover Kahlua drinks inevitably bring, I'll let you make the Colorado Bulldog, the Separator, the Black (or White) Russian, the Mudslide, the B-52, and the ridiculous Tootsie Roll all on your own. Mix these drinks blindfolded, confident that any slip of the hand will be well-hidden by the drinks' sweetness, as masterfully refined by your cordial-making skills as the finest dime-store candy. Your guests may also be impressed by the 15 to 25 bucks a liter you've saved by making this cordial at home.

The recipe for Kahlua is far from secret. Not surprisingly, many versions of it ran in popular magazines and local papers during the '70s, presumably inspired by the so-called girl drinks so popular at the fern bars of that time. I'm not quite sure where my parents first came across their recipe, but they always had a good supply of the homemade cordial in the liquor cabinet when I was a kid - we even called it the trademarked "Kahlua." Of course, there are other coffee cordials available - some merely go by "coffee liqueur" while others, such as Tia Maria, have their own trade names. Call yours whatever you like, but remember, packaging helps.

Liqueurs are rarely distilled from any particular grain, fruit, or vegetable. They're simply rectified spirits - in other words, they're flavored. Brandy and vodka are the most common base spirits used to make liqueurs. Vodka is the easiest to use because it's absolutely neutral, which allows all the desired flavors of a cordial to come through. Low-grade brandies, though more difficult to manage, are often used because of their low cost. Brandy will also impact the cordial's taste more, often making it richer. Use either spirit or a combination of both, depending on the desired effect, as the base for your liqueur.

The basic recipe for Kahlua calls for 4 cups sugar, 4 cups water, 2 ounces instant coffee (Mom favored Sanka), 2 whole vanilla beans, and a liter of 100-proof vodka (or 80-proof brandy). For a combination of vodka and brandy, try 3 parts vodka to 1 part brandy. To update this recipe for the '90s, substitute 4 shots of espresso (in liquid form) for 2 cups of water, and leave out the instant coffee altogether.

In a medium-size saucepan, combine the sugar with the water and espresso. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until all the sugar dissolves. Let the liquid cool to lukewarm, then add the spirits. Split the vanilla beans lengthwise and toss them in. You could even add 1/4 teaspoon of chocolate extract. Stir well and pour into a clean glass jug, to be sealed and then stored in a cool, dark place for about 30 days. After the initial aging, strain the liquid through a cloth-lined wire-mesh strainer to remove the vanilla beans and other sediment (you may need to do this several times). At this point, pour your cordial into decanters or bottles, or opt for an additional aging of one to three months. Again, it will depend on personal preference, which usually translates into what's been the most memorable aspect of Kahlua for you. The coffee and brandy (if you used it) will be the biggest variables you're faced with.

Typically, liqueurs are sold at proofs of 40 to 50. This recipe will be a little higher. Some recipes for coffee liqueurs call for Everclear instead of vodka, which raises the proof still higher. For a version that tastes closer to the Jamaican Tia Maria, substitute light rum for the above spirits. But remember, such alterations will affect a cordial's outcome, so you'll need to experiment before sharing your concoction with friends and family.

Now for the last instruction: Promise me you won't serve it after Presidents Day.