Mocktails: Nonalcoholic drinks

Orders for virgin drinks always insult bartenders, even those running a Slurpee machine behind the bar. When patrons order a cocktail made without spirits, they have expectations usually framed around the genuine libation. They want the taste of a particular distillation, but not its effects. There's no way to give them what they really want, but good mixers try to come close. Knowing why someone wants a "mocktail" makes that task easier. Of course, bartenders can't always discern a patron's motive, but home hosts - whose guests tend to be family and friends - often can.

Designated drivers or imbibers who dislike traditional spirits may be making their alcohol-free requests because they assume all cocktails or mixed drinks have the same amount of liquor. For both imbibers, you could mix drinks with a dash of bitters or some other accent liquor. For drinkers who haven't found a spirit to their liking and won't be driving, recommend a drink such as the Pimm's Cup or the Mojito - something with a lighter taste that's far from the expected cocktail.

Of course, imbibers who choose alcohol-free drinks for medical reasons, such as a pregnancy, a particular prescription, or alcoholism, will want no spirit, regardless of how slight, in their drinks. Although bitters have a longer history in medicinal use than in cocktails, adhere to a guest's request. Often the psychology of drinking is more important than the ingredients. That's why you should never use decanters for ingredients to be mixed in alcohol-free drinks. Guests wanting drinks without alcohol should have no doubts - or worries - that they're getting what they ordered.

Underage imbibers are the other common alcohol-free crowd. For this impressionable bunch, don't serve mocktails. Drinking Shirley Temples at their age will only encourage a sweet tooth and poor cocktail etiquette in the future. Give these imbibers what they really want: something special, be it a soda with a garnish or a wine glass of sparkling apple cider.

When mocktails are inevitable, it's best to understand their nature. To mix mocktails, you need to be familiar with a variety of syrups and juices - traditionally the accents of the cocktail world. You'll also need to be familiar with a varied list of drink recipes so you can gauge which cocktails will make good mocktails and which will make ridiculous ones. Take the virgin Margarita, the most amusing and common order: Remove the liquor, and you have a glass of lime and lime juice - a drink more like lemonade than a cocktail.

Steer clear of low-proof or no-proof wine-based liquors that claim to taste like traditional cocktail spirits - they don't. Instead, use fruit nectars from mangoes, papayas, and guavas as bases for mocktails. Interestingly enough, these juices rarely work in cocktails, unless mixed as an accent to cachaça. Orange juice, a more common cocktail accent, usually fails in mocktails, since it's already so palatable and common. But a citrus like lime or grapefruit juice usually works well because of its sour taste. Experiment with high-concentrates of cherry and grape juices, and avoid apple or cranberry. Syrups like grenadine, black currant, and almond may also be useful.

If the juice is sweet or syrupy, complement its character with a tart accent. (Key limes or regular limes usually work well.) Use the proportion two parts base to one part mixer. If your base is tart, sweeten the drink. Fresh pineapple juice or coconut milk are some of my favorites for this task. Although simple syrup could be used, a sweet juice or syrup strengthens a drink's integrity, as it keeps your guests guessing at the drink's ingredients.

Even US government regulations allow for a small percentage of alcohol in bottled beverages claiming to be "nonalcoholic." When OK'd by the imbiber, give yourself the same latitude and use bitters, which can turn even mocktails into aperitifs. At 80 proof, bitters are as potent as gin. But because you use only a dash for flavor, the overall alcohol content is negligible, at least by most standards.

The most common bitters, found in bars and pharmacies, are Angostura and Peychauds. Herbal stores also offer other brands. Many of these claim exotic and aphrodisiac qualities. Although I'm the first to doubt their powers, bitters or other specialty ingredients can create the overriding appeal of a true cocktail - the knack to make any occasion seem special and any imbiber feel pampered.

Mocktails Worth Trying