The classic proportions: The science of measurement

Mixology is a science, completely unrelated to the acrobatic gesticulations glorified in such Hollywood flicks as Cocktail. Once the scientific method is mastered, it becomes an art, never a sideshow.

A great bartender's motions are as subtle as a cocktail's edge, only forceful when appropriate. Compare it to ballroom dancing: Every dancer follows the same steps; it's the subtle execution of these steps that makes a particular dancer more graceful and elegant.

The most important step in making cocktails is measuring. Before you attempt to impress your friends or woo lovers, make sure you have mastered this step. Each drink has its own recipe, and each recipe should be followed precisely.

Measurements are exacting and should be respected as such. A little extra here and a little less there does make a difference. The most common mistake of novice mixers is to add extra liquor to drinks, falsely anticipating that their guests' main desire is intoxication. What you end up with is a half-sipped cocktail burdened by the flavor of juniper or rye. Even so-called professional bartenders can be lackadaisical in their proportions, which is why you find a predominance of wine drinkers in even the swankiest of restaurants.

Part of measuring is knowing the terminology. For starters, a jigger is a drink measure that usually holds up to 1 1/2 ounces of liquor. A useful jigger will have a small cup on each end (one 3/4 ounces and the other 1 1/2 ounces) and 1/4-ounce increments etched on its sides.

Although you can buy a simple stainless-steel jigger at any liquor store, style counts. I suggest scouring antique and collectibles stores for a sterling-silver jigger, or, at least, a glass one cleverly decorated from the '50s. A fanciful jigger, along with your mixing tools, will give your guests something to talk about while you prepare their potables.

We've taken the time to break down our recipes into ounces, splashes, and dashes; however, you may come across other forms of measurement. Most old cocktail books use the term parts. This refers to a fraction of the glass size that the cocktail is to be served in. For instance, a 3-ounce cocktail should consist of 2 ounces of one liquor and 1 ounce of another. This method doesn't account for ice melting during the chilling process. Our recipes, when chilled properly, produce 4-ounce portions, to be served in 6-ounce glasses.

Other common measurement terms are pony, dash, splash, and drop. A pony equals 1 ounce of liquor. A dash equals 1/6 of a teaspoon or 1/48 ounce. Practically speaking, a dash is one vigorous shake, or two mild shakes of a bottle with a shaker top. A splash is equal to one teaspoon or 1/8 ounce. It's as little as you can pour out of a regular liquor bottle. A drop is just that, one drop.

Here, you follow your heart. A dash and a splash can differ quite a bit in quantity; what's important is how you feel about them. Let your instinct and the mood dictate the quantities of these measures. Start conservatively - you can always add more.

After trial and error, you'll understand measuring. By being an exacting technician, you'll be able to compare and catalog the qualities of various cocktails. Using these measurements as your resource, you'll be able to decipher which flavors and accents are most popular and how to achieve them. Soon, you'll have the vocabulary to attend to any need.