The land of milk and honey finally gets what it needs: Maraschino liqueur

It's time for a toast - maraschino liqueur is once again available on Yankee soil. This fruity liqueur has long been within reach to the rest of the world, but for the last year - since the resurgence of the cocktail - it has become nearly unattainable in the United States, after having once been commonplace.

Consequently, many of you may have felt duped when we've shared such classics as the Aviation and the Hemingway Daiquiri - drinks that required unobtainable ingredients. Of course, that wasn't our intention, but unlike other liquors, there is no substitute for maraschino liqueur, a clear, semidry cherry derivative.

Fortunately, we now have the opportunity to restore this fine liqueur to its former position of being more popular than Cointreau. In fact, there are even rumors that maraschino is currently available in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho. Still, I find it peculiar that in the land of milk and honey - where fat meals are available at just about anytime and in the comfort of your driver's seat - a former staple of even the diviest of bars is nearly impossible to find.

Many people, particularly distributors, blame this liqueur's homeland for the shortage. The region known as Dalmatia, home of the spotted dog, is on the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea, where the sour cherry known as marasca, or Prunus cerasus marasca, grows. This tart, dark red fruit, along with its pits and stems, gives maraschino liqueur its poignant flavor and makes the land along the Adriatic coast as respected for its maraschino as Cognac is for its brandy. Regrettably, though, Dalmatia has long been embroiled in unrest. Once part of the Republic of Venice, Dalmatia has been ruled by Napoleon, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Italy, and the former Yugoslavia. For now, it is a region in Croatia.

During the early 19th century, a Genovese trader named Girolamo Luxardo was living in Zara (now called Zadar) when he first altered a traditional Dalmatian recipe for rosolio maraschino, a nonalcoholic drink. In 1829, the Austrian emperor granted Girolamo permission to produce commercially both a cinnamon and a maraschino-flavored rosolio based on the Dalmatian recipe. During World War II, Girolamo - packing several small marasca trees - fled to Italy, where in 1947 he built what is still one of the largest maraschino-producing factories.

The Girolamo family has gone on to gain worldwide recognition for its cherry-flavored distillation, which remains the epitome of cherry liqueurs. Girolamo's descendants have only slightly altered the original recipe and packaging of Luxardo Maraschino. The bottles are still distinctively wrapped in straw, a technique originally used to protect them during long sea voyages.

The original Luxardo does not have the widest distributorship of maraschino in the United States. Preiss Imports of Southern California now handles all US distribution of Luxardo Maraschino. But as a small company representing more than 800 products, it may not give Luxardo Maraschino the attention it deserves. In fact, it may take a little coaxing to get the company's representatives to take you seriously. You can call the company at (800) 745 5042 for prices and availability. From what I've gathered, however, Preiss does not always have Luxardo Maraschino in its inventory and the company will not sell a bottle to you as a consumer. Instead, you'll receive a list of establishments in your area that have previously ordered from Preiss. From that list, begin your grass-roots lobbying efforts. If a restaurant or store does business with Preiss, ask it to add a bottle or two of Maraschino to its next order.

Distillerie Stock USA Ltd., the Italian producers and importers of Stock products, is another option for acquiring a bottle of maraschino. Although the flavor of Stock Maraschio is less complex and slightly sweeter than Luxardo's, it is still filled with cherry essences. In fact, Stock Maraschino was my first introduction to the wonders of this liqueur.

According to Tom Conte, the national marketing manager for Stock, the company is creating an ad campaign to get as many of its products - including its maraschino - into restaurant chains. This is good news for those of you who do not live in a major coastal city. Chili's and Tito Macaroni's are two of the restaurants that Tom mentioned. He also assured me that he would give anyone who calls or emails him the location and phone number of the nearest restaurant or bar that carries Stock Maraschino. Tom's number is +1 (718) 651 9800.

Luxardo and Stock are, of course, not the only brands of maraschino available; however, they are the only two now distributed in the United States. If you live outside the country, you may come across many other maraschino brands, such as Drioli and Marasca. But remember, these liqueurs are imitiations of the original Luxardo brand and are often made from syrupy concentrates or extracts that may include bitter-almond oil. Whether shopping in the United States or elsewhere, don't be fooled by cherry cordials, which are overly sweet and lack the cherry-almond scent and clean, dry aftertaste of good maraschino liqueur.