Drinks to kill a chill: Toddies, grogs, and buttered rums

Although the daffodils and tulips may be in bloom, the first weeks of spring rarely deliver warm weather. If you're like me, you've nonetheless been venturing outside without a warm jacket or hat. By the time I reach the bar for an evening aperitif, I have such a chill that I no longer crave a cocktail - instead, what I want and need is something warm.

Convincing a bartender to mix a hot drink may be difficult, but well worth the effort and tip. Once the drink's vapors have spread, the bartender may even be surprised to find crowds requesting the same drink, which is just as easy to make in bulk.

Toddies, grogs, and buttered rums are much easier to heat than a glass of brandy, which is best warmed between the palms of your hands or high over a flame. Recipes for these old-time drinks dilute and flavor the alcohol enough to buffer any unpleasant vapors. For this reason, don't waste cognac or single malt scotches on these drinks; any moderate call brand will do the trick.

Although vapors from warm drinks are pleasant, those from hot ones are not. If the alcohol in a toddy is heated too long or poured too soon, the first sip will be a doozy. Unwary imbibers may unexpectedly get a nose full of fire, causing them to choke on that first sip. Be kind to your guest and serve the right amount of alcohol at the proper temperature.

Part of the art in making warm drinks is to maintain the balance between hot and scalding: A drink that's too hot won't be enjoyed, and a lukewarm drink will go unfinished. To avoid this, keep your mixers just short of boiling before adding the liqueur. Coffee and tea should be fresh, and warm milk or cocoa is best steamed before pouring.

Hot mixers quickly go to waste if poured into a cold glass. To heat a glass, simply fill the vessel with hot water and let it sit until the outside is hot to the touch. A thick-walled wine goblet or a brandy snifter with a stem are elegant glass selections, though a coffee mug can be used.

Grogs - spirituous liquors diluted with water - are the most basic of hot drinks. Brandy, dark rum, and whiskeys are all prime candidates for this drink. Because there isn't any sugar added to them, grogs are ideal before a meal and are attractive when garnished with a lemon or orange twist.

Toddies take the grog one step further. With the addition of sweeteners, spices, and juices, toddies are the perfect treatment for that last winter cold. Usually enjoyed right before bed, a good, potent toddy will ensure that even the most congested will sleep like a baby.

Because sugar does not dissolve well in spirits, you should make simple syrup. Muddle this sweetener with a lemon or orange wedge until the fruit's juice is extracted. Add 1 to 2 ounces of your spirit of choice and top with water. If you're about to eat a meal, use only a little sweetener and nothing else. If this is a nightcap, add three to five cloves and a cinnamon stick.

Famous for his own version of the hot toddy, Trader Vic created a Tom and Jerry batter years ago that's still available in most stores that sell liqueur and mixers. Although there are now numerous versions - including my own - of this drink, you can find the original in Trader Vic's Bartender Guide of 1947.

Slightly more simple than a Tom and Jerry (but just as comforting) is a hot buttered rum. (You've surely tasted the Lifesaver flavor, now try the drink.) At first, it may seem odd to add a pat of butter to a hot beverage, but once you taste the richness, you'll understand and forget your plans for a fat-free diet.

When mixing hot drinks with milk, coffee, and/or cocoa, your options are unlimited, so be creative. Almost any cordial will work well in a hot drink. Kahlua, Grand Marnier, and peppermint (or any other) schnapps would be a sweet but soothing addition to warm milk before bed.