A drink before noon: Why it can be all right

This past weekend, I was in a quandary. My day was filled with errands and engagements, but as luck would have it, I woke up on the wrong side of the bed with a mild headache. By 10 a.m., I was sweaty and anxious, rushing out of the house to get the car to the repair shop, and to get to the bank before it closed. I was on the verge of losing it and ruining an entire day.

Instead of barreling along at my usual manic pace, I decided to take a step back and treat myself to something special. I took a detour into the Zuni Café here in San Francisco and enjoyed one of their chunky Bloody Marys. Accompanied by some firm Malepeque oysters and shoestring potatoes, it proved to be the perfect antidote for an awful morning.

In some crowds, drinking before noon isn't accepted as either socially or politically correct behavior. As testimony to this, most cocktails do not fit the occasion or description of a morning beverage, commonly referred to as a pick-me-up.

As an avid whiskey drinker, the thought of sipping a scotch before experiencing some daily strife doesn't sit well with me. (I've heard it said that scotch was meant for people who do things.) But drinking a Bloody Mary can be very cathartic, and that's why we've included it in our list of favorites. The Bloody Mary, on occasion, can play doctor for anyone in need of a little soothing before lunch.

Now, I don't recommend that people set their alarms 30 minutes earlier so they can down one before the job. But if you're of sound mind and body, there's no reason why you shouldn't enjoy a pick-me-up like the Bloody Mary, as they were originally designed.

A Bloody Mary is not meant to be a get-drunk beverage. But it's a well-known fact that alcohol aids digestion. For those of you who eat breakfast, celebrate your next omelette with a fortifying Bloody Mary.

The Bloody Mary is also effective in treating a hangover. Although there is no real cure for a hangover except sleep and time, the Bloody Mary can help. Like Thera-Flu, this drink (or another "hair of the dog") can buffer the symptoms. By introducing a little alcohol back into your system, the sobering process is slowed and your nerves are less jarred as your body recuperates from your irresponsible antics. You must remember, though, that like a good barbiturate, this can be habit-forming.