Glassware: What goes in what

When deciding which would be the most appealing location to enjoy a libation - other than home - I often consider what glassware a bartender has available. Although this rationale is almost entirely psychological, drinks do taste better when served in the proper glass. Besides, as Charles H. Baker Jr. observes in the Gentleman's Companion of 1939, some people maintain that all cocktails can be served in the usual 2-ounce Manhattan-type glass, just as anyone can wear a crimson bow tie with tails - but there's rarely an occasion to do so.

A drink served in a glass that is too small detracts from the potation and makes a subtle statement about the establishment. In fact, such inadequate glassware represents much of what is wrong with today's bars. Why such a small glass? Sadly, many owners fail to trust their employees' ability to portion spirits properly. These owners may even believe that customers are more satisfied when they receive a drink that's full to the brim, as though just because the cocktail is nearly spilling over, a customer has somehow received more than was paid for.

Of course, the reality is that no one - except the stingy owner - is satisfied. Bartenders feel the need to apologize, knowing that by skimping, they've cheated the customer out of a properly proportioned drink - one that never could have fit into the glass served. A bartender's knee-jerk reaction is to portion as much as possible into the glasses, hoping to show customers they are getting their money's worth. This merely leads to spirits wasted on otherwise dry bar napkins and clients unimpressed by the shaky hands of their host. For me, the most disappointing drink I can receive is a whiskey on the rocks served in a thick-walled, 4-ounce minitumbler filled with three ice cubes and an ounce of Johnnie Walker.

Restaurateurs use oversized plates to spotlight their chefs' expert cuisine. Rarely - if ever - do you hear guests complain that they didn't get a full plate of food. Why can't the same be true of spirituous beverages? Nothing shows good taste and judgment better than a healthy collar on a drink.

The collar is the space between the top of the liquid and the rim of the glass. Think of it as breathing room - space for the liquid to show off its aroma, space for the beverage to move without spilling, and, in iced drinks, space for majestic peaks of ice.

With a glass of wine, the collar should be half the glass, which lets your nose experience the wine before your taste buds do. The same is true for cordials and brandies that are aromatic in nature. Snifters are designed to be filled approximately 20 percent, with room to swish and warm their contents.

For any cocktail, allow one fingerwidth of collar to ensure that none of the potion will spill and that any rim treatment is left undisturbed. The collar for single liquors served on the rocks can be anywhere from one to three fingers' worth. For these drinks, it's more important how the glass feels in the hand. Most satisfying to me are glasses that I can wrap only two-thirds of my hand around. For tall, iced drinks served with a straw, the collar is less important. The straw will serve to diminish any mistakes made by the bartender without damaging the imbiber's experience.

Drinks served up - or in glasses with stems - are to be sipped while holding the stem, not the bulb of the glass. This keeps the warmth from the imbiber's hand from heating the glass and, subsequently, the drink.

Of course, once furnished with properly sized vessels, bartenders must exercise good judgment and fairness when mixing cocktails. Bars must remain in business, and guests should get what they pay for. Harmony between these two principles will inevitably result in more healthy, happy places to enjoy spirits.