There's no avoiding those high-pressure holidays that make us wish either we were with family or that we weren't. Fortunately, though, the Old Fashioned cocktail can soothe both the soul and the nerves. Simple enough to make and the chameleon of cocktails whenever need be, this drink lets hosts relax and guests feel special.

After all, more than half of playing host is making guests - even those classed as family - feel well-attended. Because Old Fashioneds must be mixed one at a time, you can tweak each drink to a guest's particular penchant. Few cocktails can accommodate so many requests as this one. Like the rum - work nicely for those imbibers unwavering in their dislike of whiskey.

Keep in mind, however, that an Old Fashioned really isn't an Old Fashioned unless made with whiskey. Encourage even those guests who wrinkle their noses at whiskey to try the traditional Old Fashioned before something else. The citrus juice and cherry soften this cocktail's whiskey bite, and when served with hearty hors d'oeuvres, it's even more palatable.

Regardless of the liquor used, mix a teaspoon of sugar with a splash of water and two dashes Angostura orange wedge, and then muddle - don't pulverize - the ingredients into a paste. Add 2 ounces of the desired liquor and fill with ice, giving the mix a good stir. Avoid using more than one cherry or pouring cherry juice into this drink, despite any pleas from sweet-toothed relatives or friends. Excessive trim in cocktails only encourages snacking from the garnish tray.

For a sweeter Old Fashioned, add a few dashes of an orange liqueur like Curaçao or Cointreau. Patrick Gavin Duffy, in his Official Mixer's Manual of 1934, suggests trying a more forceful Pernod for absinthe. For a softer-hitting Old Fashioned, top with a bit of soda water.

Old-Fashioned aficionados may bicker with you about whether or not this cocktail should be made with a sugar cube or with simple syrup. From the mixer's perspective, simple syrup blends easiest in the drink. But as long as you adequately muddle the mix, sugar cubes will work just as well, though they'll add about 15 seconds to the making of each drink.

Count on the Old Fashioned to give your gathering's atmosphere a little spunk, even if it includes the likes of staid Uncle Harry. Semisweet cocktails with a kick you don't notice until the food's gone and the chatter dies down, Old Fashioneds always make for a lot of fork-pointing and table-banging, but all in good spirits. By the time dusk hits, your guests should be pleasantly sedated with Thanksgiving turkey and Old Fashioneds.

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