Smoother than its reputation: Tequila

Tequila has always been slighted by traditional cocktail crowds. This spirit's mixing reputation has been soiled by distillers pushing low-grade tequilas and silly people drinking them. You'd think people would know better, but I've seen plenty of imbibers take a little salt to momentarily deaden the taste buds before shooting an ounce or two of tequila.

Fortunately, as tequila continues to grow in popularity, distillers are improving their production methods to attract even more buyers. These more refined tequilas could lead to new, popular cocktails that would expand the list beyond the typical tequila drinks like the Margarita and the Tequila Sunrise.

Pulque, a cloudy or whitish drink fermented from the blue agave plant, is the father of tequila. Much like beer, pulque is an acerbic-smelling, low-in-alcohol beverage that has been enjoyed in South America for centuries.

In Mexico, you may be able to find a few pulquerías, where this native drink is proudly served. But pulque, with its distinctive taste, isn't appreciated by most gringos, who prefer the smoother spirit first distilled from pulque by the conquistadors.

Much as cognac is protected and regulated by the French government, the production of tequila is managed by the rulers of Mexico. Traditionally, spirits advertised as tequila could only originate in the state of Jalisco. But because of this liquor's popularity, the Mexican government expanded the tequila region to include the states of Michoacán, Tamaulipas, Nayarít, and Guanajuato.

Many drinkers believe that mezcal is tequila, which is incorrect. Tequila is the best of mezcals, just as cognac is the best of brandies. Mezcal can be produced anywhere, from any variety of the agave plant grown in Mexico or in the southwestern United States.

Tequila, on the other hand, must contain at least 51 percent spirits distilled from the pulp of the blue agave plant, grown in one of the five states of the tequila region. Only 1 percent of all tequilas are 100 percent blue agave, and those brands proudly state this single ingredient on their labels. Most tequilas are diluted up to 49 percent during fermentation with sugar cane pulp, the raw material of rum. Using sugar cane is far more economical than using blue agave, which is expensive to harvest.

The blue agave plant can take up to 12 years to mature. Once fully grown, its broad, swordlike spikes (or branches) are cut away. The remaining core, known as la piña, looks like an overgrown pineapple. The piñas can range from 50 to several hundred pounds each. The larger the piñas, the higher the sugar content and the more tequila they can produce.

Piñas are harvested and transported to distilleries, where they are steamed like giant artichokes and crushed. In some of the smaller "boutique" tequila distilleries, the steaming is done in brick ovens called hornos. Among the better tequilas are some that publicize this brick oven in their name, such as Sauza Hornitos.

Once the piñas are crushed, the pulp is separated from any fermentable juices. As in the production of rum, some distillers ferment the mash slowly for a robust flavor, while large producers typically use a much quicker fermentation process that produces lighter-bodied tequilas.

After fermentation is complete, the pulque is distilled twice to produce tequila. Unlike neutral spirits, tequila is distilled at proofs ranging from 90 to 120.

White tequilas (tequilas blancas)
Silver or white tequilas are ready for bottling immediately after the second distillation and are the least refined of the tequila family. Unaged, most are blended with water to lower the proof for a more palatable taste.

Gold tequilas
Gold tequila is just white tequila with caramel added for coloring and flavoring. Essentially, gold and white tequilas are of the same quality, though some might argue that gold tequilas have a smoother taste. Such gold tequilas as José Cuervo were created merely to lure the US market. A native of Mexico would never order a gold tequila, knowing that it's merely a counterfeit.

Tequilas reposadas
Unlike whiskey and brandy, tequilas do not benefit greatly from aging. Reposados are aged in oak barrels for up to a year for a milder bite. They are then blended with water and bottled, having taken on a slight golden hue from the oak casks.

Aged tequilas (tequilas añejas)
Even the most expensive tequilas, or añejos, are usually aged in oak for only two to four years. These tequilas are the most mellow agave distillates and must meet strict regulations set by the Mexican government. Añejos are now being marketed as sipping spirits, like single malts.

If you aren't on a low-sodium diet and insist on doing tequila shots, I suggest only buying brands with the words "100 percent blue agave" on the label. Of course, you'll be looking at US$18 to $28 a bottle, and you may still make an ass of yourself, a regrettable tendency of those who enjoy too much tequila.