Often overlooked, but not forgotten: Madeira

Often overlooked if not completely forgotten, Madeira - a fortified wine named after a group of small islands off the coast of Portugal - is said best judged by its travels. During the 18th century, those who could afford it demanded that their Madeira cross the Equator twice. Imbibers couldn't explain it, but they could taste the difference between well-traveled Madeira and that with a short transit. The wine used the long trips through the Atlantic's tropical climates to mature into a dryer, richer wine. Nowadays, Madeira makers have more efficient ways for achieving that taste, though I know a few people who still insist on packing a bottle for their weekend sailing trips in hopes of the same effect.

I doubt the Bay Area could produce weather even mildly tropic, but I do find that an occasional glass of Madeira as an aperitif or as a vermouth substitute in a cocktail quite nice, especially if I'm relaxing on a boat.

Today, Madeira wine is matured in estufas, or "hothouses," that range in temperature from 130 to 170 degrees Fahrenheit. Imagine the opposite of a cool wine cellar or cave. Like an oven, the temperature of a hothouse is briefly increased to "bake" or mature the wine. The hotter the estufa, the shorter the maturation time. When applied to Madeiras, this process - called "maderize" - is a blessing. But when used to describe any other wine, it's typically fair warning that if the wine has been exposed to such high heat, it's undrinkable.

After aging in such a harsh environment, Madeira is fortified with brandy made from the same grapes used to first make the wine. The brandy increases the alcohol content and stabilizes the brew. Madeiras are so sturdy that they can remain drinkable for more than a century. If you were to stumble upon some forgotten bottle from the mid-19th century, the Madeira would probably still be worth drinking. But if you were to buy a bottle today, the same rules might not apply. A date on the bottle is most likely a notification of the oldest Solera used in the blending of the wine. The Solera system was first created for the fermentation of sherry, the wine most similar to Madeira. There's no guarantee, however, that all the wine in the bottle is older than 100 years. In fact, unless the bottle's label states how much of the original Solera was used, assume there's less than 10 percent - or even as little as a few drops.

Madeira is produced from four main types of grapes: Verdelho and Sercial, the dry varieties, and Malvasia and Bual (or Boal), the sweeter, richer grapes. Sercial and Malvasia, also known as Malmsey, are wines produced from vines that don't have many grapes and take longer to mature. Because of their short supply and long production, quality Malmseys and Sercials are usually more expensive. Verdelho and Bual, on the other hand, mature rapidly in estufas and come from vines that produce more fruit, so they are less expensive and more common.

I don't find any of the Madeiras particularly pleasing with a meal, though a character in Shakespeare's Henry IV seemingly found them so agreeable that he was accused of bartering with the devil for it: "Jack, how agrees the devil and thee about thy soul, that thou soldest him on Good Friday for a cup of Madeira and a cold capon's leg." I, however, do enjoy a pale amber Sercial - the lightest and driest Madeira - as an aperitif or as a substitution for vermouth in cocktails like the Martini or the Astoria. Verdelhos tend to be rounder and darker than Sercials, but they have a tasty bitter finish that still qualifies them as an aperitif. Malmsey and Bual Madeiras are the sweet and most honeylike. Supposedly, Victorians sipped Malmseys as mid-morning drinks. Personally, I'd only opt for one after a cigar or dessert on a brisk winter night. Boal (as the Portuguese spell it) is lighter and more suitable for afternoons or warm evenings.

When purchasing your next bottle of Madeira, read the labels closely. There are no strict rules as to what each producer or importer can include on their bottles. You may even find Madeiras with names such as "Rainwater" or "Old Southside" that commemorate an imaginary 18th-century ship. Steer clear of such marketing schemes, and stick to one of the four grape varietals. A good bottle of Madeira, which should be at least eight years old, will tell you just what you're buying, and like geographic-specific cognac and bourbon, this wine can come only from Madeira.