The most delicate of spirits: Brandy

Grapes are blessed with a natural balance of water, yeast, and sugar, so it's not surprising that wine was one of the first fermented beverages known to humanity. Since those first grapes were crushed, volumes have been written about wine production. Today, wine is still treated with a reverence unique in the world of food and drink.

Brandy is the most delicate of spirits - cognac, for instance, is France's most treasured distillation (with perfume a close second). Wherever the liquor is made, the soil, the climate, and the skills and disposition of the farmer greatly affect the quality of the fruit and, ultimately, the quality of the wine and brandy made from it.

Brandy is best when distilled in an old-fashioned pot still, hammered out from sheets of copper. This type of still, sometimes referred to as an alembic still, consists simply of a pot to heat the wine, a gooseneck tube to transport the vapor to the condenser, and a collector.

The heat source for distillation is usually steam, which allows for precise temperature control (although because of the pressure, there is always a risk of explosion): if the mixture gets too hot, unwanted impurities find their way into the liquid. The condenser, a long copper coil that is cooled by cold water, helps condense the vapor into liquid.

Most brandies go through at least two distillations. The first distillation of wine yields a liquid of about 30 percent alcohol that is then returned to the still. The second pass results in an eau de vie of 70 percent alcohol, or 140 proof. The eau de vie is collected and aged in Limousin oak for at least 3 (but up to 55) years. As it ages, the brandy evaporates and the volume decreases, as does the proof. The brandy is transformed from a colorless, coppery-tasting liquid to a smooth, amberlike liquor with a hint of grape.

Novice drinkers may be impressed by Napoleon cognacs aged for upwards of 100 years and costing thousands of dollars. But the cost-to-quality ratio of these cognacs is unimpressive; 18-to-30-year-old brandies are just as good (and far more affordable).

Brandy gets its color and mellowness through contact with wood. Impurities in the alcohol from oils, acids, and mineral salts - and tannins from the cask - contribute to the color. If the liquid were not aged, these impurities (or congenerics) would ruin the flavor of the brandy.

Eaux de vie blanches - or young brandies - are made from other fruits and are most popular in Europe. Poire William, kirsch, and framboise are all examples of tasty eaux de vie. These are colorless, but their aromas and flavors are reminiscent of fruit blossoms. These brandies exemplify how the essence of fruits can be captured through distillation. It's a shame, but in fact most people do not enjoy these because of their fiery finish. An acquired taste, eaux de vie are not meant to be aged and are cherished by aficionados for their refined - yet rough - edge.

Calvados, made in Normandy from small bitter apples, is a more polished eau de vie. It is allowed to age into a refined spirit, for brandy-like roundness. If you try a fine brandy and don't find it to your liking, I suggest you hunt out a Calvados.