A wintertime favorite: Egg Nog

Holiday panic attacks often hit in the aisles of grocery stores. Best intentions for a Julia Child holiday are crushed by the realization that you really don't have time to make homemade pies, let alone enticing punches. But before tossing a few cartons of Egg Nog into your shopping cart, contemplate what's really in those ready-made mixes. As with the dubious maraschino cherry, you won't be able to pronounce half the ingredients.

Besides, a quality Egg Nog recipe can become a wonderful family heirloom. Like Wassail, this punch has a long history - one that manages to unite young and old in a family, even if Granny and your generation still don't see eye to eye about the virtues of fruitcake. According to John F. Mariani, author of The Dictionary of American Food and Drink, "'Nog' is an old English term for ale, a meaning known since the late 17th century. In England the drink was often made with red Spanish wine, but in America, where the first printing of the word was in 1775, rum and later other spirits were substituted."

As you might guess, there are hundreds of recipes for Egg Nog, and with a little practice and experimentation, you can come up with a family or personal tradition to look forward to each year. Start with the traditional Egg Nog recipe as your base, and build from there.

In Egg Nog, the key ingredient, and the most difficult to manage, is indeed the egg. Theoretically, the liquor "cooks" the eggs. But for those of you still concerned about salmonella, consider the advice of Harold McGee, author of The Curious Cook: crack each egg and add 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 2 teaspoons water. Then stir with a whisk, and microwave on high 30 to 45 seconds - just long enough for the mixture to start boiling. Stir again with a clean whisk, and microwave until bubbling. Remove and stir again with another clean whisk to even out the heating. The egg will still be liquid, though thickened slightly.

People often squabble over the proper consistency of Nog, just as they do with the egg consistency of their breakfasts. Most agree, however, that Egg Nog should be enjoyed fresh, though there is a camp that claims this punch is better after having been cured for several days. But whatever your notions, there are a few things to remember when developing your Egg Nog recipe.

First off, making Nog is labor intensive, so it's best to make a large batch at one time. The recipe I've included here is for one serving. For larger batches, multiply as needed, using a base of 2 ounces liquor (whiskey, rum, or brandy work best), an egg, 8 ounces milk, and a teaspoon sugar for each serving. Separate the whites from the yolks and beat the yolks until frothy, then add sugar. Continue beating the mixture of yolk and sugar while adding the liquor slowly. Let the egg, sugar, and liquor sit for at least an hour. Then take the whites, add 1/4 teaspoon of sea salt for every four whites, and beat until stiff. Fold the whites with the yolk and liquor to finish making the batter, which can be refrigerated for a few days.

For a single serving, use 2 tablespoons batter and 3 ounces whole milk. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds, and strain into a chilled wine goblet or a warmed Irish-coffee mug. For larger batches, add cold or warm milk and the desired spirit prior to serving, and beat with a whisk or an electric hand mixer. Add the liquor and milk straight from their containers, so you can more easily manage the Egg Nog's consistency. That way, if the mix becomes too runny, you can simply use less milk. After adding the spirits, mix in the milk until you get the desired texture. For especially thick Egg Nog, use stiff egg whites and less milk. If you're planning to serve the Egg Nog cold, mix with chilled ingredients and refrigerate if necessary. Never add ice to the drink - it will only dilute the flavors you've labored to create.

Whether or not you're serving single Nogs or a bowl of Nog, dust the top of each drink with nutmeg. Guests often demand traditional nutmeg, though powdered cocoa or ground cinnamon also work nicely. But remember, winter brews such as Egg Nog demand more than a nod to tradition. As with the Martini, guests always have expectations that can't be slighted without damaging the mixer's reputation. Just as you'd balk at a Martini in a tumbler, some of your guests will do the same when served Nog any way other than Grandma's, but at least this year you can assure them the punch didn't come from the carton.

Egg Nog recipe card